Cycling in Holland has been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember. This past week it happened in the most epic way. Over 300 km of the Netherlands’ most beautiful cycling paths and bridges explored with seven incredible friends (two of whom are also family). The tour was assisted and supported by my mom’s Dutch cousin, Reinier, who, in addition to helping confirm hotels, rented and drove the chase van with Rich and my wheelchairs, and all our luggage.
On Sunday, after building the handbikes and securing the rental bikes, we did a 16 km test ride through Amsterdam, passing under the Rijksmuseum arch, through Vondelpark, and over the Skinny Bridge. It felt great to stretch my arms and get a taste of what was to come.
Day one, we headed north out of Amsterdam, towards Zaanse Schans, when disaster struck. A post in the middle of a winding forest path, 15 km from the start, caught Rich by surprise and ripped one of his rear wheels off. The carbon axle was torn in two. An AI search suggested a machine shop 1.5 km away would be our best chance. With a classic can-do Dutch attitude, the owner, Kees and a couple of his guys had the handbike ‘repaired’ and rideable in less than 2 hours. My dad’s name was also Cays. The thought that my dad was somehow helping to make sure our trip continued, with no friends left behind, made me smile. Thanks Dad. Back on the bikes, we finished the first day of 59 km to our first overnight in Haarlem.
Day two, we headed west through the dunes to ride south down along the North Sea. We passed Zandvoort and saw many of the preparations for the F1 race that weekend. The wind coming off the water had our flags bending almost 90 degrees, and reminded me of those violent gusts of wind I felt 10 years ago racing down the mountains at the Kona Ironman. After a swim in the sea for a few of the boys, we feasted again and ended the day in Leiden, the most picturesque of the cities on this entire tour, with a university energy that tempts you to come back for more. Even with the elevation in the dunes, this was an easy 52 km day.
Day three was the longest day, 75 km in total. Our first stop for coffee and sweets took place in Delft’s market square. Beyond the city, some paths we found ourselves on were narrower than our handbikes, but we explored them all with a grin and the occasional holler for help from our buddies if Rich and I got hung up on a bridge or barricade. Lucas led us through the maze of paths like a seasoned guide, with confidence, jokes, and a depth of knowledge and history that impressed us all. After riding down through Sluipwijk, we found ourselves in Gouda, sorted out rooms that were called “accessible” (but weren’t at all), and coaxed the recommended restaurant, Brasserie, to reopen the kitchen and feed us. We shut down another restaurant.
Day four began with a coffee stop in Schoonhoven. Here we had the sweetest encounter with a curious little Dutch Oma. She peppered Lucas with questions about why Rich and I were lying down and how we could possibly live on a handcycle or without the use of our legs. After coming to an understanding about Rich, she looked at me and asked in Dutch, “You too?” Yes, I acknowledged. To which she responded matter-of-factly, “niet mooi.” I agreed; it’s not the nicest outcome to lose the use of your lower body, but we’re okay and still smiling. We took what might be my favourite picture, with Brett holding her arm to keep her from losing her balance on the cobblestones as she pivoted around quickly to look at us all, forgetting she had arrived using a walker. It was one of many special encounters with the Dutch.
Lunch was at a Pannenkoeken house in the heart of Holland. A pancake, a beer, while we filled our bellies and waited for a thunderstorm to mostly pass. Back on the bikes, we saw more farms, windmills, water, and towns, ending the day in Utrecht. A 66 km day.
Day five, the last day of riding, we cycled by Slot Zuylen, the old castle in Oud-Zuilen, as well as Nyenrode Castle, which is now a business school, before stopping for coffee in Breukelen village. Our final cycling lunch was extra special, as we were joined by Lucas’s Oma and Aunt, and Peter’s wife, Liz, who had just flown in from Toronto. After a wonderful lunch, we made our way up the Amstel back into Amsterdam. A final team dinner formally brought the bike tour to a close. Saturday, we did a canal cruise before guys started to peel off to other places or back home. Keith headed home to Scotland. Mike to his cousin in Alkmaar. Rich, Keenan, and I flew home Monday, while Peter, Liz, and Brett continued onto their next adventure in Europe.
When we got home, Keenan asked me if the trip met my expectations. Upon reflection, I can easily say that it exceeded any expectations I had. For over a year, I spent any free time I had trying to bring together the best guys with an itinerary that would hopefully make everyone happy. I think I succeeded, and will always be grateful for this opportunity and its outcome. Thanks to Rich, Keith, Peter, Brett, Mike, Lucas, and Keenan for making it happen and being the crew that made it what it was. And a special thanks to Reinier, whose van, patience, and quiet logistics kept the whole tour rolling. What a week. What memories.
If you ever get the chance, even for an afternoon, rent a bike and experience Holland. There’s nothing better. I hope to be back.
To see all the pictures, click here.